With four distinct regions, each comprising enough Golf and the Good Life to easily fill a week-long itinerary, we have always advocated a divide and conquer approach to Ireland. A first-timer will probably head to the Southwest coast, drawn by the historic links of Lahinch, Waterville, and Ballybunion. In all likelihood, the next trip will hit the Northeast and its famous Royals – County Down and Portrush – as well as the exceptional combination of golf and pubbing found near Dublin. That leaves the Northwest as the last region on the list and, oftentimes, the odd one out.
Although some in our business might consider this region too far off the beaten path, overlooking the Northwest would be a disservice to the traveling golfer for a variety of reasons.
The Golf
The courses found in this part of Ireland aren’t listed within the ever changing Top-100 lists (yet), but that shouldn’t serve as a deterrent. Simply put, the golf here is exceptional. At times it’s exceptionally rugged. It’s the variety of golf which has called players to the dunes for centuries, and any proponent of the game in its purest form will feel right at home.
The rugged Carne Golf Links.
Working our way from south to north, the journey begins at two courses by the godfather of Irish golf, Eddie Hackett. However, a shared designer isn’t all that Carne and Enniscrone have in common; both feature an overabundance of craggy dunes and stunning panoramas of the North Atlantic.
The inspiring green site of Enniscrone’s 12th hole.
Next it’s onward to County Sligo, where the looming Benbulben mountain served as inspiration to Nobel Prize winning author, W.B. Yeats. This Harry Colt design is among the finest on the Emerald Isle and plays host each year to the West of Ireland amateur. Padraig Harrington was a notable winner of the championship, while a mop-topped teenager named Rory took home the title twice.
Benbulben looming in the distance at County Sligo.
From here the links offerings are both plentiful and delightful. There’s Donegal (better known as “Murvagh”) where the two nines run in opposing circles within one another in similar style to Muirfield. That leads to Narin & Portnoo, arguably the most remote of this collection of far-flung links, before reaching the pair of courses at Rosapenna. Old Tom designed one, Pat Ruddy the other. Finally, there’s the quirky links at Portsalon, which has remained mostly untouched since it debuted 125 years ago.
Old Tom standing watch over Rosapenna.
The Good Life
When it comes to enjoying Life at its Best, few places in Ireland offer it in such abundance as the Mount Falcon Estate. From falconry and clay pigeon shooting to fly fishing on some of the best salmon and trout grounds in the country, the Estate makes unplugging and soaking in the moment all too easy. It also happens to serve as a convenient home base to the links at Carne, Enniscrone, and County Sligo.
As you work your way north, additional Good Life activities range from shopping at the Foxford Woolen Mills to a stroll through the 15th century Abbey of the Four Masters. The burial site of W.B. Yeats in the shadow of Benbulben is another popular choice, so too is the picturesque fishing town of Killybegs. It’s the view from the tallest cliffs in all of Europe, however, that is sure to find a permanent spot in the memory banks. The drive to the top of the cliffs at Slieve League is not for the faint of heart, but the payoff makes the white-knuckle journey entirely worthwhile.
The Value
Aside from the collection of Golf and the Good Life, there’s one other important reason to not overlook a trip to Northwest Ireland: value. A trip to this corner of the country offers significant savings over the other three regions, but don’t expect that to last for long. As more and more golfers come to enjoy the journey off the beaten path, it’s only a matter of time until they discover Northwest Ireland and the laws of supply and demand kick in.
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