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Forever Ireland Golf.An old saw states that some of the best Scottish golf is in Ireland, and we tend to agree. Most of the great golf courses in Ireland were designed by Scots, not the Irish. The Emerald Isle is blessed with a splendorous coastline encircled by links courses as a crown is by precious gems, a truly great vacation holiday destination. Unfortunately, these gems are a long drive from one another over some of the worst roads in Europe. Those who can endure the demanding travel regimen, or minimize it through careful vacation holiday planning, will experience marvelous golf, an enchanting populace and some of the best scenery in Europe. Northern Ireland features the best collection of golf courses within easy reach. The Dunluce Course at Royal Portrush, a Harry Colt masterpiece, is the only course off the island of Britain ever to host the Open (1951). The second course at Portrush, the Valley Course is a fine course in its own right, and well worth playing on your holiday. Royal County Down, one of our personal favorites, may be Old Tom Morris' best work; on a clear day with the sun shining on the Mountains of Mourne and gleaming off Dundrum Bay, few courses are more scenic. Portstewart begins with a dizzying drive from a tee more than 50 feet above the fairway, and begins a stretch of holes through massive dunes which many opine to be the best opening holes in golf. The region's only shortcomings are a lack of truly luxurious hotels or any sights of much interest to tourists. The Dublin cluster of golf courses is not quite as strong as that of the North, but all are within an hour's drive of the Dublin city center, an exultation of dining, pubbing and shopping with superb hotel choices. The cluster is led by gnarly old Portmarnock, home to more Irish Opens than any other course-and this from the days when venues were chosen for their quality rather than their financial contribution to the European Tour. The K Club, an Arnold Palmer parkland creation with an elegant manor house hotel, will host the 2006 Ryder Cup. Royal Dublin, more interesting now that it has been upgraded, is a good old warhorse of a course where Christy O'Connor served as club professional since the days of St. Patrick. The Southwest of Ireland boasts the best-known golf courses, the best scenery, the most impressive castles/hotels and the longest drives between points of interest. Ballybunion is the most widely known Irish course amongst American golfers, and deservedly so. Old Tom Morris created rugged Lahinch more than a century ago for the Scots of the Black Watch Regiment, stationed in Ireland to subdue the locals. Waterville has perhaps the best homeward nine in golf, and the peninsular setting of Old Head is so stunning that we still have not decided whether it is a truly great course. Who cares? The scenery and the clubhouse seafood alone are worth the journey. There is also Tralee, Arnold Palmer's first European design, and the good parkland courses in Killarney, a bustling commercial (and touristy) center nicely located as a base for a southwest tour. For those interested in life after golf, there is the breath-taking scenery of the Ring of Kerry, the charm of picture postcard Dingle and the gourmet fare of Kinsale. If a spot of pampered luxury is required, a VIP stay at Dromoland Castle or Adare Manor is just the ticket. Ireland's greatest asset, however, is her people. It is a country where conviviality and conversation have been raised to the status of an Olympic sport, no place more so than any pub anywhere on any evening. But beware! Blarney is, after all, an Irish word. Major Basil Haversham, OBE |
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The Golf Courses of Ireland