Royal Dornoch

At the turn of the nineteenth century, Dornoch and Aberdeen were the only golfing links that did not lie within a few miles of the Firth of Forth as golf did not exist outside the east coast of Scotland. Established by priests who had been transferred from St. Andrews to the local cathedral, Dornoch is widely regarded as the third oldest links ground in the world after St. Andrews and the defunct links at Leith. (The next time you wait behind several clergy at your local club, remember their golfing tradition goes back centuries.)

Dornoch is also regarded as having few peers. The writer, Herbert Warren Wind, said, "No golfer has completed his education unless he's played and studied Royal Dornoch." The course goes out and back along the shores of Embo Bay and has three holes (9, 10 & 11) where the fairways run literally up to the beach. It features a marked change in elevation for the seventh and eighth holes as well as the sixteenth and seventeenth. The proper method of playing eight and seventeen is the subject of debate. Both offer a tee shot blind to the green over a severe drop. The question is whether to lay up on the high ground or drive over the ridge on to the fairway dozens of feet below. My personal choice is to drive away keeping to the left on eight and lay up left on seventeen.

Number 14, "Foxy", is one of the world's best par fours. Measuring nearly 460 yards with a slight dogleg, Foxy culminates in a severely crowned green characteristic of most of the course. Proper play requires a draw off the tee and a fade for the second shot. Harry Vardon considered it the finest natural hole he ever played. Experienced golf travellers may be reminded of the famed fifth hole at Pinehurst #2 when playing Foxy. Little wonder. Pinehurst architect, Donald Ross, was born in the village, learned his golf on the links and was sent to St. Andrews to apprentice under Tom Morris before returning to Dornoch as greenkeeper, professional and club maker. A keen eye tells the design aficionado that Ross did his best work when he emulated the natural contours of Dornoch. There are precious few other models that could have served him as well.

The secret to playing the course is recognising that it is relatively tight off the tee with vicious rough, but it is not overly long and the greens are huge. Experienced Dornoch golfers like the legendary Stewart Shaw eschew the driver on most holes, choosing whatever puts the ball in play in the fairway, knowing that they can usually find the greens even with a wood from the fairway. Enjoy!

Independent travellers: To reach the course, drive east on the main street of the village, turn right beyond the cathedral square then left at the first opportunity. Report to the Pro Shop on the first level of the clubhouse behind the first tee. You may use the changing rooms on the ground floor and the lounge and dining room on the upper floor (no golf shoes). As caddies can be scarce, be prepared to lug or pull your bag. And be mindful to purchase a strokesaver before beginning play. While in Andrew Skinner's pro shop, peruse his soft goods prices. They are the lowest in Scotland. Jumper anyone?