Muirfield
(Honourable Company Of Edinburgh Golfers)

Muirfield has been the home of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers since the club was moved from the Musselburgh racetrack to its present site in 1891. Originally playing on the now defunct links at Leith, the club was recognised by the Edinburgh Town Council on 7 March 1744. Its minutes kept ever since form the oldest continuous record of any golf club, exceeding St. Andrews' Royal & Ancient by a decade. In fact, the latter used the HCEG's original 13 rules of golf when promulgating its own in 1754.

We note that par is irrelevant at Muirfield in that its members regard match play as the only true form of golf and favour foursome play where partners hit alternating shots against their opponents. That is why holes like nine seem impossible long for par fours and holes like seventeen somewhat short for par fives. In match play, one plays against his opponent rather than par. Thus, only recently has the Muirfield scorecard even listed par for each hole. There was a time when the official scorecard did not to handicap the holes, either, as no true gentleman would offer or accept strokes.

In an era when most golf courses were traditional "out and back" links, the original Muirfield course design by Old Tom Morris was positively revolutionary with both nines returning to the clubhouse and following a somewhat circular routing. The result is dramatic variations in the wind as no more than three consecutive holes play in the same direction. Another result has been no inconsiderable amount of controversy beginning with a most unfavourable review by many of the contestants of the first Open held here in 1892. Subsequent significant design changes addressed their concerns.

I regret to note that controversy concerning Muirfield once extended even to the principals of Haversham & Baker. I have always found Muirfield to be a special place. The savagely deep bunkers are intrinsic to traditional golf even if they are an anathema to American golfers who wrongly believe one ought to be able to extricate oneself from sand without the mandatory loss of a stroke. This is most definitely not Florida, chums. Moreover, what true connoisseur of the game would not savour long hours in the clubhouse perusing the famous portraits and conversing with the members?

In his early visits to Muirfield, however, my American colleague, Mr. Baker, found the links disappointingly ordinary owing to the straight-edged fairways, a lack of smashing scenery, a paucity of memorable holes and seemingly large flat greens. I am pleased to note that, through the years and my coaching, Mr. Baker has come to appreciate the course as a masterfully subtle design even if it is not a scenic, rugged, traditional links. He now finds a day at Muirfield with morning fourball, lunch in the clubhouse with its members and afternoon foursome among his favourite experiences in all of golf.

The course itself is perhaps best known for the difficulty of the starting and finishing holes on both nines. But it is the tantalisingly easy par 5 seventeenth that is a frequent scene of Open drama. Trevino hacked around for four strokes then chipped in from off the green to best the stunned Tony Jacklin in 1972. Nickie Faldo won when Paul Azinger found two bunkers in 1987 and John Cook three putted from hardly more than the length of the pin in 1992. Ernie Els birdie on the final day in 2002 arrested a slide, gave him a place in a four man playoff and, eventually, the championship.

Very subtle golf course. Made to be played on the ground.

Independent travellers: The club is located at the end of a small lane off the A198 on the eastern edge of Gullane. Look for the sign on the north side of the road designating the way to Greywalls. Go to the gate at the end of the lane where there is a car turnaround, give the name of your party to the attendant and drop your clubs. The attendant will direct you to the car park. Upon entering the clubhouse (please note that while women are permitted to play the course in the company of a gentleman, they are not permitted in the clubhouse), report to the window on the left after the hallway tees and you turn right toward the dining room. Do bring your handicap card or letter of introduction from your club to present to the Secretary or his assistant, the delightful Mrs. McCarthy. Do not plan an extensive forage for souvenirs. Because "Hon Coy" lacks a golf professional and his shop (those who play golf for money are most ungentlemanly), there are no genuine HCEG souvenirs except the crested golf balls and strokesavers which may be purchased at the check in window. Unofficial Muirfield souvenirs are sold at Jimmy Hume's Gullane Golf Club pro shop in the village of Gullane. There is a changing room to the left at the hallway tee. If you are having lunch, please note that both the diningroom and the smoking room require coat and tie. Food is not to be taken into the smoking room after lunch and photographs are not permitted in the clubhouse. Ladies may wish to dine at the adjacent Greywalls Hotel. There are changing facilities for ladies, though not in the clubhouse proper.