Royal Troon

Royal Troon lies on a marvelous stretch of Ayrshire coast links land south of Glasgow and north of Turnberry that includes such courses as Prestwick, Western Gailes and Glasgow Gailes. In fact, Troon and Prestwick are separated only by the Pow Burn. The club was formed in 1878 by a number of gentlemen from the Troon area led by James Dickie of Paisley who persuaded the fifth Duke of Portland to donate the land for the new course. Joining St. Andrews, Muirfield, Carnoustie and Turnberry, Troon is one of only five Scottish courses presently on the rota for The Open Championship. [The other four rota courses are the English "royals": Birkdale, Liverpool, Lytham and St. Annes, and St. Georges.] It was on the links of Troon that Arnold Palmer won his second consecutive Open in 1962 and Mark Calcavecchia won the first four-hole play-off in 1989. The latter accomplishment was no doubt aided by the absence of water into which Mark could shank during the pressure of the closing holes as he did at Kiawah during the 1991 Ryder Cup. The Open has since returned to Troon with Justin Leonard's 1997 victory and Todd Hamilton's 2004 improbably triumph over Ernie Els.

Perhaps exceeded only by Lytham, Troon is one of the sternest tests of the rota. Its fairways are narrow. The rough is difficult. The carries are long. And the greens can rival the speed of Augusta. It features the shortest Open championship hole in the 126 yard eighth known as "Postage Stamp" and the longest in the 577 yard sixth known simply as impossible to mere mortals given the prevailing wind on most days. The "Amen Corner" of Troon could be considered numbers seven through eleven which plunge through immense dunes on the outer end of the links. Eighteen is the monstrous finishing hole where Calcavecchia hit an absolutely splendid long iron from the deep rough to within seven feet for a final hole birdie that forced the play off. (Some observers opined that he benefited from the Scottish principle of "he who has the fastest caddie, has the best lies".) But Postage Stamp remains the most devilish and most storied of Troon's holes. In the 1950 Championship, Herman Tissies carded a one putt 15. Gene Sarazen aced the hole in 1973 at the age of 72.

While more than worthy of a visit, I do not rank the Royal Troon experience among my favourites either within the rota or in the context of great courses in general. Make no mistake this is a great course that requires both length and accuracy and is, in that regard, a very stern test of one's golfing skills. My experience is diminished by the fact that the first three holes are quite similar and there are no scenic vistas or truly memorable holes. I find the course a grind, more to be endured than enjoyed. Lunch in the Members' Dining Room amid the club's trophies, on the contrary, is an excellent experience and the chaps who belong to the club are marvelous conversationalists from whom I keep my criticisms of their course.

Independent travellers: Follow the signs to the village of Troon from the A77. Turn right onto the B749 from the A79. The club is located on the south edge of town on the south side of the B 749. From the car park, walk around the pro shop and clubhouse to the right and enter through the revolving door on the north side. Report to Michael or one of his staff at the starter's desk on the right side of the hallway. Mention that you are travelling with Haversham & Baker. Visitor's changing room is to the left immediately through the revolving door. Lunch is included in your package and available either in the members' diningroom (coat and tie for men; dress, skirt or formal slacks for women) or the less formal lounge at the rear of the clubhouse. Street shoes must be worn at lunch as any shoe worn on the golf course, may not be worn in the clubhouse. The professional's shop is one of the best stocked in Scotland.