The European Golf Club

My younger brother Mycroft and I attempt to come together once a year for a bit of golf, preferably on a course we have not seen before. Our most recent reunion found us in Dublin with a few days to kill, and we took the opportunity to motor south to Wicklow to play the newish European Club.

Opened in 1993, the course is the culmination of Pat Ruddy's lifetime dream to design and develop a world-class links course. Being aware of Mr. Ruddy's long career as a golf writer, publicist and ebullient promoter, we took with a grain of salt the gushing promotional literature, which touted the course as the greatest, the most sublime, etc., etc. Distrusting hyperbole (we are in the business, after all), we were expecting, quite frankly, a rather ordinary course flung along a nondescript shore.

We were most pleasantly surprised to find a stunning course routed cleverly through a jumbled mass of muscular dunes. The only (we think) links course to be built on the east coast of Ireland in the 20th century, it is already ranked 25th in the world by that great follower of golf fashion, Golf Magazine. Time will tell whether or not this ranking is the real thing or just a current fad, but we liked it and our tastes, besides being similar, are generally impeccable.

Unlike the old classic links like Lahinch or Ballybunion, there are few blind shots as most of the holes are designed to be visible from tee to green. This allows for some stunning views, not only of the particular holes, but also of the Irish Sea and the lovely Wicklow Hills. Though there are only two par fives, there is a plethora of long, crafty par fours that require length and accuracy. There are also four sets of tees and this tip of the hat to the modern age allows the course to be enjoyed by players of all skill levels. The dune holes typically thread their way through a valley from an elevated tee to greens tucked away in natural cul-de-sacs. There are also holes hard by the beach, notably numbers 12 & 13, which are relatively flat and exposed, and the contrast is quite welcome.

The wind was howling at a terrific pace when we played, once blowing Mycroft's trolley over (there are no caddies here), and our scores were as elevated as some of the tees. Our match, as always, was a spirited one, my bad back being a match for his arthritic knee. It came down to the last hole, where, to our surprise, we found an artificial lake guarding the green. It doesn't belong on the course at all, and upset Mycroft's aesthetic sense to such a degree that he dumped two approach shots into it. I, however, struck my approach with equanimity to within 10 feet, three putting masterfully for a bogey, and the match. Then I exited the green exhausted as the European Club is as tiring to walk as the Kings at Gleneagles. When I return, I shall give considerable consideration to hiring one of the motorized buggies.

Independent travellers: The European Club is located about 45 minutes from Dublin City Centre, about 5 miles south of Wicklow. Motor south from Dublin on the N11, bypassing Shankhill and Bray. Just before Wicklow at Rathnew, turn right off the temporary roundabout. Take your second left, and proceed to Jack White's Inn (on your left). Turn left a Jack White's until you come to a T-junction. Turn right at the tee, and proceed about three minutes or so to the European Club on your left. If you get hopelessly lost, call them at (0404)- 47415.