Royal County Down

Royal County Down is an exceedingly memorable golfing experience. The surrounding scenery is so spectacular that one has difficulty concentrating on the game. The course is encompassed by the Mountains of Mourne, Slieve Donard and the sapphire waters of Dundrum Bay. In early summer, emerald green fairways meander through dense gorse in golden bloom. In late summer, the mountains are cloaked in the deep purple of blooming heather. Elevation changes during the course of a round heighten the vistas. There are very few courses in the world that can rival County Down when it comes to natural beauty.

But concentrate one must if he is preserve his larder of golf balls, let alone approach his handicap. Local knowledge, a competent caddie, or a course guide is essential. Blind shots seem the rule rather than the occasional exception. There are at least five blind tee shots and two blind approaches. This propensity has led more than one critic to label County Down a flawed masterpiece. I, on the other hand, cannot resist noting that with all its hidden bunkers and low tees behind gorse, the beloved St Andrews Old Course is the unquestioned world leader in blind shots. This petulant criticism aside, County Down's ultimate strength may lie in its splendid par threes. All but one exceeds 200 yards from the championship tees and requires a carry over gorse and all manner of disagreeable vegetation.

In fact, every hole except the seventeenth is different and appealing. The third joins the fourth at Portrush Dunluce and the eleventh at Ballybunion Old as the best par fours in Ireland. The ninth is one of the most photographed holes anywhere (obligatory Kodak moment at the crest of the fairway). The thirteenth is a splendid dogleg through the gorse, which reminds me of another factor in the course. With nearly every hole lined with impenetrable gorse, the tee shots are rather intimidating. The truth is that the actual landing areas are quite generous-far more so than they appear from the tee. So, whatever else, resist the temptation to steer and hold on to the club. Flail away!

Royal County Down is also another example of the British Isles custom of courses being shared by more than one golf club. The majestic clubhouse of the Royal County Down Club reflects the lordly style of its mostly Protestant membership. The utilitarian, flat roof design of the Mourne Golf Club houses a mostly Catholic membership as likely to include a local plumber as a successful merchant.

Old Tom Morris of St. Andrews left much to the game of golf. Designed for the princely sum of four pounds sterling in 1889, Royal County Down is yet another. In fact, RCD may well be his best-preserved masterpiece. For the average golfer, the best advice is to enjoy the scenery, marvel at the design of the course and save the scorecard for posting upon return to the home club. Royal County Down is a godsend to those who wish to fatten their handicaps for the Saturday morning match.

Independent travellers: The course is located at the north end of the business district on Links Road near the spire of the Slieve Donard Hotel. (Look for an entrance through a hedge.) Report to the professional's shop at the far end of the car park. See Brian for your caddies and remind him you are travelling with H&B. After the round, share a jar with the local lads in the Mourne Golf Club adjacent to the first tee. Friendly chaps. Or, retire to the second floor of the RCD clubhouse (no golf shoes).