As we continue exploring the numerous regions for golf trips across the pond, we move from Southwest Ireland to the city where many Expeditions begin and/or end on the Emerald Isle: Dublin. For many, Dublin is a short stopover for a little sightseeing and maybe a round of golf while on the way to somewhere else. But as you’ll see, this vibrant city offers enough Golf and the Good Life to fill a week-long itinerary without ever having to change hotels.
The Golf
Before even setting foot in Dublin, you may get a little preview of the outstanding golf found in this region. When flights approach landing from the east – and they usually do – those seated on the right side of the plane are treated to a bird’s eye view of three of Dublin’s finest links courses.
The first also happens to be the most notable course in the Dublin area: Portmarnock. Founded in 1893, the original Portmarnock Golf Club consisted of just 9-holes and was built on the estate of famous distiller John Jameson. Over the last century and a quarter, Portmarnock has gone on to host a number of prominent events, including numerous Irish Opens and the Amateur Championship. But it’s the admiration of acclaimed golf writer, Bernard Darwin, that tells the real story…
“I know of no greater finish in the world than the last 5 holes at Portmarnock.”
Immediately to the north as we peer out the window is the Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links. Not to be confused with its older and more famous neighbor next door, the Portmarnock Links was designed by Bernhard Langer and has matured nicely into a thoroughly enjoyable test of golf. It also happens to be paired with a great piece of the Good Life near Dublin, but more on that later.
As the plane slowly descends to Terra Firma, we catch a glimpse of a small peninsula in the distance which is home to The Island Golf Club. In our 25+ years of recommending The Island to our travelers, we have yet to find someone that didn’t come away spellbound by this outstanding links. But yet again, when it comes to The Island, it’s our friend Mr. Darwin who has said it best…
“The best course in Ireland you’ve never heard of. Play it, and tell no one.”
Those seated on the left-side of the plane aren’t entirely left out of the links-scoping fun. The keen eye will spot a course in the distance on Bull Island; a piece of land that simply didn’t exist 200 years ago. When Captain William Bligh – of Mutiny on the Bounty fame – laid plans for a sea wall to protect Dublin harbor, the resulting silt buildup through the decades gave birth to an entirely new island. In 1889, the Royal Dublin Golf Club declared the island a perfect location for their new links.
Not to be forgotten in all of this links euphoria is the K Club. One of Ireland’s great parkland courses, the Palmer Course at the K Club famously hosted the Ryder Cup in 2006. It also rounds out the collection of exceptional courses all found within half an hour of the Dublin city center. By stretching that radius to an hour, we invite the addition of County Louth and the European Club to the itinerary. The former is a multi-time Irish Open host, the latter is the passion of noted golf architect and owner Pat Ruddy. Both may prove to be the highlight of your Dublin golf expedition.
As you can see, the abundance of superb golf in the Dublin area makes the city an excellent choice for the traveling golfer who wants to skip the moving around in favor of staying put. But the golf is only one half of the equation to a successful trip, and as it turns out, Dublin delivers on the other half in spades.
The Good Life
Whether its accommodations, cuisine, or sightseeing, the city of Dublin is home to perhaps the finest collection of the Good Life in Ireland.
In the heart of the city, we find the Conrad and Merrion hotels. Both offer everything we’ve come to expect from a great hotel, with convenient locations for exploring the sites of the city. Each also offers a great choice for the post-round pint, from the Cellar Bar at The Merrion to the Conrad’s new Gulliver’s Travels inspired space known as Lemuel’s.
Those looking to enjoy Dublin and yet retreat outside of the hustle and bustle of the city will find a dash of seclusion at the Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links. Alongside the previously mentioned Bernhard Langer designed links, the Portmarnock Hotel offers newly refurbished and comfortably appointed rooms just minutes from the three links courses we previewed from the sky.
All of this great golf is sure to work up an appetite, and as one might expect in a great city like Dublin, there’s plenty of wonderful options at hand. For a hearty serving of traditional Irish country fare, our first choice is always Gallagher’s Boxty House. In the mood for a steak and a quality cocktail? Then pay a visit to Brookwood on Baggot Street. Then there’s Shanahan’s on the Green… Nothing short of Dublin’s landmark dining experience, no visit to this city is complete without a meal here. Be sure to leave a little extra time to survey the U.S. Presidential memorabilia with a cocktail in the Oval Office Bar downstairs.
In addition to the outstanding golf and accommodations, Dublin is home to a number of attractions that shouldn’t be missed. One can never go wrong with a visit to the Guinness Storehouse, the most frequented tourist destination in all of Ireland. As they say, the Irish keep the best Guinness for themselves, and it pairs wonderfully with the view from the Gravity Bar on the top floor. Not far from the Storehouse is Trinity College, where the library’s Book of Kells and the Long Room are sure to impress.
A tip from our Concierge: Get to Trinity College early in the morning when they open. You’ll likely have the place to yourself for a bit.
With so much Golf and the Good Life to explore, there’s really only one thing that could round off our visit to Dublin….
After you’ve played, sipped, and ate your way around this city, a stop at Murphy’s Ice Cream will prove to be just what The Major ordered.
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