Sit-Rep from St. Andrews – The Return of Overseas Golf Travel

The return of international golf travel has brought with it a variety of questions from the H&B Forces.

Some are counting down to a long awaited Expedition, others are in the midst of planning their next one. In both cases, one of the most common questions we’ve received of late happens to be the same…

What is it like to take a golf trip across the pond right now?

I’ve recently returned from a weeklong visit to London and the St. Andrews area. This was my first overseas trip since before the pandemic. It was also the first time that I boarded an airplane since March of 2020.

Thanks to our friends and partners on the ground overseas – the sprawling network of hoteliers, golf clubs, driver-hosts and so many others who are the lifeblood of our company – I had a pretty clear idea of what to expect.

In addition, hundreds of H&B travelers embarked on an Expedition during the abbreviated 2021 season. Their feedback was overwhelmingly positive and provided the unique perspective of someone on the receiving end of the experience.

But as we have maintained for over 30 years, there’s no replacement for first-hand experience.

After over a week abroad, I’m here to report that, by and large, things felt a lot like my last trip in 2019.

The restaurants were busy. Tables were sometimes hard to come by at popular venues without a reservation, especially during the weekend.

The pubs were livelier than ever. The Jigger Inn was always busy, especially when the sun was out. The same was true at numerous pubs and 19th holes in St. Andrews.

The tee sheets were filled from dawn till dusk at the golf courses. Better still, many of the voices heard around The Old Course at St. Andrews were from the United States and elsewhere in Europe.

Sure, some things were a little different.

There’s the testing and documentation requirements to enter the country. Most restaurants have QR codes on the table for your menu and some have added extra seating outdoors. And masks are required to enter shops and restaurants, though you can remove them once seated.

All of which is to say that things felt a lot like my town in Florida and probably a little like yours as well.

Drone Image of Old Course at St. Andrews

Since returning, my colleagues and friends alike have asked many questions related to Golf and the Good Life in St. Andrews and elsewhere. Here is a little insight to some of the most common questions I’ve received of late.

What was the departure and arrival process like?

Like most of Europe and the United States, the United Kingdom only allows overseas golfers to enter without quarantine if they are fully vaccinated. In addition, all visitors must complete a Passenger Locator Form. The form asks for details about your flight, where you’re staying, your vaccination status, and other questions related to your trip..

Before departing Atlanta, my entire flight (with Delta, as you might imagine) was asked to show the gate agent our passport, CDC vaccination card, and their completed Passenger Locator Form.

Strangely enough, I wasn’t asked to present my vaccine card or Locator Form ever again. Clearly the responsibility for verifying both has fallen on the airlines before departure.

The ePassport gates at London’s Heathrow airport were operating as usual. Just place your passport face down on the sensor, remove your mask, have a look at the camera, and…

Welcome to the United Kingdom.

St. Andrews Old Course sign and bridge

What did you have to do for COVID testing?

Besides carrying fully vaccinated status and completing the Passenger Locator Form, UK rules required that I take a COVID on or before my 2nd day in the country. In addition, all Americans, regardless of vaccination status, are required to take a test within 3 days of their return flight to the United States.

The Day 2 is a self-administered test. You simply follow the instructions in the test kit and drop the sample in the red Royal Mail box.

The one catch, however, is that the Day 2 kit needs to be purchased in-advance and carried with you on the plane. Upon purchase, you’ll receive a reference number for the kit which must be entered on your Passenger Locator Form.

For my return test, I purchased self-test kits from eMed. The test was self-administered and supervised through a Zoom-like call on my smartphone. From start to finish, the test took approximately 25 minutes to complete, 15 of which were simply waiting for the result to come through.

I found the eMed test to be very convenient, though slightly confusing on first use (although not required, I took a test before departing the United States). The video supervision is handled through a call center halfway around the world. The supervisor moves quickly and there was a bit of a language barrier at first.

Once completed, the result was sent to my email. Delta required that I upload the test result to the FlyReady area of their website. If you’re not flying Delta, your airline will likely have a similar process.

Jigger Inn St. Andrews

Was anything closed, limited, or different from your last visit to St. Andrews?

After the economic toll of the last two years, I was concerned that some of my favorite places may not have made it to the other side. I’m happy to report that concern was entirely unfounded.

The Scores Hotel has closed, but not due to the business environment. The property changed ownership, and the new investor has plans to transform it into a five-star hotel.

The St. Andrews Cathedral is currently closed, but again this has nothing to do with the pandemic. Apparently some of the 900 year old masonry has fallen from the ruins of late.

The one change that stands out, however, is the absence of the St. Andrews Old Course singles queue.

The queue was affected by Scotland’s rules from earlier in the pandemic. Although the guidelines now allow for the singles queue to operate as normal, the decision was made not to bring it back for a partial season. Time will tell if and how it returns in the future.

On the contrary, there’s an abundance of exciting new things to see in St. Andrews. So many, in fact, that sharing what’s new in St. Andrews requires a post of its own.

Rusacks St. Andrews Rooftop Putting Green

Simply put, if it’s been a while since your last visit, there are plenty of reasons, both old and new, to return to The Home of Golf.

For all that has changed around the world over the last two years, a couple of things have remained exactly the same across the pond.

First, the unforgettable memories come so easy around the great golf courses of Great Britain and Ireland. That’s not just based on my own experience, but also the overwhelmingly positive feedback we received from the H&B Forces who traveled in 2021.

And second, is the incredible hospitality that you’re guaranteed to experience throughout your entire trip.

Because after nearly two years of almost no international golf travel, the hotels, restaurants, pubs, caddies, and driver-hosts, will all be delighted to have you back.

This Field Report comes courtesy of Daniel Jones – H&B Communications Manager


For more insight on planning your golf trip across the pond, visit the pages below, read our reviews, or have a look through our Yardage Book, where you’ll find answers to many of our most frequently asked questions.

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